“A Champagne evoking elegance and finesse, this also has the hallmark 1996 structure. A fine mousse buoys its coffee, citrus and pencil shaving flavors, while the acidity carries them to a long conclusion. Drink now through 2012.”

“The quality of the ’96 vintage shows in this wine’s intense mineral flavors and lithe, muscular power. Yeasty and smoky in the initial taste, red fruit backs it up in the end. Nearing ten years old, this remains tight and young. And at $40, it’s a steal.”

“Shimmering gold hue with ribbons of tiny bubbles. Mature aromas of citrus, smoke, Sherry and an oxidized note. Beautifully balanced flavors of lemon, curd, apricot, chalk, straw and flint. More flint in the toasty close.”

“Pale color. Concentrated, somewhat exotic nose offers strong soil tones: minerals, flint, oyster liquor and mint. Then brisk and creamy in the mouth, with the strong acids of the vintage giving the concentrated lemon, mineral and spice flavors terrific penetration. Quite incisive but not hard or lean. Finishes long, lemony and brisk.”